When a pizza joint is packed at lunchtime on a wet winter’s day, you know it’s something special. Pizzarium, the takeaway of Gabriele Bonci, Rome’s acclaimed pizza king, serves Rome’s best sliced pizza, bar none. Scissor-cut squares of soft, springy base are topped with original combinations of seasonal ingredients and served on paper trays for immediate consumption.

Pizzarium has the best pizza al taglio in Rome. ‘Pizza al taglio’ literally means pizza by the cut. In other words, this is how you get a slice of pizza in Rome rather than a whole pie all to yourself.

Pizza al taglio is sold by weight. The person behind the counter will hold the knife over the pizza and you can tell them if you want a little more or less. They will then weigh the slices and hand you a bill.

The ingredients are fresh and organic, the crust is perfect, and the toppings often experimental (try the mortadella and crumbled pistachio, or the beguiling roasted potatoes and mozzarella). Hang around, as toppings change on a very quick rotation.

There’s also a good selection of Italian craft IPAs and wheat beers, and wines by the glass.

Note that there are only a couple of benches outside to sit on, and reservations aren’t taken.